Ruby has been considered the "king of gems" for centuries. With its vibrant red color and extraordinary hardness, this precious stone is not only a symbol of passion and power, but also one of the safest investments in luxury jewelry.
In this article, we'll explore everything you need to know about rubies, from their physical characteristics to their timeless appeal in jewelry creations.
What is a Ruby? Characteristics and Rarity
Ruby is a variety of the mineral corundum. What distinguishes it from sapphire (also a corundum) is the presence of traces of chromium, which gives the stone its iconic red color.
The Mohs Scale and Resistance
In terms of durability, ruby is second only to diamond. It has a score of 9 on the Mohs scale, making it perfect for everyday wear in rings and bracelets without fear of deep scratches.
Color: The "Pigeon Blood" Factor
A ruby's value is primarily determined by its color. The most valuable hue in the world is called "Pigeon's Blood," a vivid, pure, and deep red with a slight bluish hue, typical of deposits in Burma (Myanmar).
Ruby in Jewelry: Elegance and Meaning
The use of rubies in jewelry has ancient roots. From royal crowns to modern red carpets, this gemstone never ceases to enchant.
1. Alternative Engagement Rings
More and more couples are choosing rubies as an alternative to the classic diamond. Representing eternal love and vitality, the ruby ring is a bold and romantic choice, often set in white gold or platinum to enhance the color contrast.
2. Popular Cuts and Shapes
In jewelry, rubies are cut to maximize brilliance and color. The most common cuts include:
Oval and Cushion: The most popular for preserving carat weight.
Drop: Ideal for elegant pendants and earrings.
Cabochon: Often used for rubies that feature the "asterism" effect (the famous bright star on the surface).
3. Combinations with Metals
Yellow Gold: Enhances the warm tones of the stone, giving a regal and vintage look.
White Gold and Platinum: They create a modern and sophisticated look, making the red of the gem "pop out".
How to Recognize a Quality Ruby?
If you're searching for a ruby on Google or at your local jeweler, keep in mind the 4Cs (similar to those of diamonds, but adapted):
Color: The most important factor. Aim for intense saturation.
Clarity: Natural inclusions are common (called "silk"). If a stone is too flawless for a low price, suspect a synthetic.
Cut: It must be symmetrical to reflect light well.
Weight (Carat): Natural rubies above 3 carats are extremely rare and their price rises exponentially.
Curiosity: The Ruby and Tradition
Ruby is the birthstone of July and is traditionally given as a gift on the 15th and 40th wedding anniversaries. It was once believed that this gem could protect the wearer from misfortune and bestow health and courage.
Conclusion
Choosing a ruby means owning a piece of the earth's history, a concentration of energy and beauty that will never go out of style. Whether you're looking for a special gift or a collector's item, rubies remain the perfect choice for those who love to stand out.
Expert tip: Always ask for a gemological certificate (such as IGI, GIA, or GRS) to verify the stone's origin and any heat treatments.
Natural vs. Synthetic Rubies: What's the Difference?
Unlike imitations (such as red glass or cubic zirconia), synthetic rubies are genuine corundum crystals grown in a laboratory. They have the same chemical composition (Al_2O_3), hardness (9 Mohs), and optical properties as mined rubies.
However, there are crucial differences that only an expert eye or gemological analysis can detect.
1. The Training Process
Natural Rubies: They are formed over millions of years deep within the earth, under extreme pressure and constant heat. This chaotic process leaves unique traces within the stone.
Synthetic Rubies (Lab-Created): These are produced in a few weeks using scientific methods. The most common are:
Verneuil Method (Flame Fusion): The most economical. It creates very pure crystals, but often with thin "curved growth lines" visible only under a microscope.
Flux Method (A Fondente): Slower and more expensive, it produces crystals that mimic natural inclusions much better, making them difficult to distinguish.
2. How to Recognize Them: The Inclusion Test
Perfection is often the first sign of an artificial stone.
Natural Inclusions: Almost all natural rubies have small internal crystals, "silk" (thin rutile needles), or liquid fingerprints. These imperfections are the gem's "birth certificate."
Synthetic Inclusions: Lab-made stones may appear "too clean." If they do have inclusions, they are often microscopic gas bubbles or metal residues from the casting process, which are never found in nature.
3. Value and Price (2025 Data)
The market clearly distinguishes between the two categories, especially for large stones:
| Feature | Natural Ruby (Certified) | Synthetic Ruby (Lab-Grown) |
| :--- | :--- | :--- |
| Price (1 carat) | From €1,500 to over €15,000 | From €50 to €300 |
| Rarity | Extremely rare (especially in untreated form) | Unlimited availability |
| Investment | Maintains and increases value over time | Nearly zero resale value |
A "Middle Way": Treated Rubies
Not all natural rubies are created equal. Over 90% of rubies on the market undergo heat treatment (heating) to improve their color and transparency.
Simple heating: This is an accepted and standard treatment in the industry; an untreated stone can be worth up to three times as much as a heated one.
Glass Filling (Lead Glass Filling): This is a process used to "repair" low-quality natural rubies. Although it is a natural stone, its value is significantly reduced.
The verdict: which one to choose?
If you're looking for a piece of jewelry for everyday use, aesthetically impeccable, and on a budget, synthetic ruby is an excellent technological choice. However, if you desire a unique piece that retains its value and embodies the age-old charm of nature, natural ruby remains the only real option.
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